How to even skin tone at home (full routine!)

We all want glass skin–not the oily shine some people think of, but that gorgeous, translucent, clear, lit-from-within glow. Back in my 20s, I was often showered with compliments on my flawless skin. While I’d never have labeled it “glass,” it was definitely bright and vibrant.

But, as we know, time marches on. With age, our cell turnover takes a hit, and our skin becomes less adept at fending off external factors. This means our pores can lose their elasticity, leading to that dreaded dull and uneven tone. Plus, pesky age spots and hyperpigmentation start popping out.

I caught up with Melanie Simon from ZIIP Beauty, the skin wizard for celebs like Margot Robbie, Mandy Moore, and Jennifer Aniston. She shared her go-to moves below for that flawless, even skin we’re all after.

Step 1: Know the whys
The primary cause of an uneven skin tone is often too much melanin production creating hyperpigmentation. This is caused by a variety of factors:

Environment
Repeated exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light from the sun or from tanning beds can cause hyperpigmentation and age spots. UV light accelerates the production of melanin, which is the pigment that gives skin its color. Over time, this sun damage can lead to the clumping or overproduction of melanin, forming spots. This is also true with pollution and smoking.

Age, Genes, and Hormones
As skin ages, the number of melanocytes (cells that produce melanin) decreases, but the remaining ones can become larger and less uniform. This natural aging process makes the skin more susceptible to the formation of age spots, which is why they are more common signs of aging in people over 40.

Also when we have a hormonal shift, such as pregnancy or menopause, it can lead to a shift in melanin. If your parents had a lot of age spots, you might be more likely to develop them as well due to inherited traits in skin pigmentation and how your skin repairs itself.

Skin Type and Photosensitivity
People with lighter skin tones, who burn easily and tan poorly, are more at risk for developing age spots because their skin has less protective melanin. However, anyone can get age spots if they spend enough time in the sun.

Inflammation
Skin conditions, injuries, or inflammation can cause hyperpigmentation as the skin heals, resulting in spots that look similar to age spots, like those that follow acne or eczema.

Additionally, consider the tools you’re using at home or in the dermatologist’s office. If age spots appear after using a particular tool, take a step back and assess your skin before proceeding. Sometimes, skin can be too sensitive to handle the treatment and acts out.

Improper treatments or lack of aftercare can lead to unintended pigmentation changes, including hyperpigmentation, which may temporarily resemble age spots. Both chemical and laser treatments can cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), especially in those with darker skin tones.

Stress and Diet
We are seeing increased clinical evidence on how the gut microbiome affects every part of our body, including the skin.

“The microbiome within the skin and the gut keeps us healthy. It keeps our immune system in check, and if the immune system is out of check then it’s kind of like a wreak-havoc kind of moment, if you will, and this inflammatory response … it’s just a response of the body just being out of balance,” Renata Block, a physician assistant at Advanced Dermatology & Aesthetic Medicine in Chicago, told CBS News.

So if you’re noticing a sudden change in your skin, it could be time to look deeper at nutrition and get a proper probiotic. Melanie Simon raves about Seed Symbiotic, which has both pre and probiotics. “It’s really hard for someone to impress me like this, because I feel like I’m so desensitized…I’ll try it and I’ll be the judge…well, I started taking it and this is something you should consider. The strains and delivery are incredibly important…” Just make sure to read the label first–be prepared for your skin to purge.

Another, perhaps gentler probiotic to consider is Mega Sporebiotic, which is also very thoughtfully developed.

For your diet, consider eating more high quality fats, antioxidants, and avoiding foods that cause inflammation for you personally. I had to do an elimination diet over 60 days, which included just beef and broccoli to start, until I could figure out which foods were causing me issues.

Step 2: Find Your Tools

ZIIP Beauty
I’ll be shouting from the rooftops about this home microcurrent device until everyone I know has a ZIIP Beauty tool. It completely changed my skin (see my original before and after here). Melanie Simon developed an app for this device so everyone can have their own custom treatment plan. Here’s the treatment for uneven skin tone:

ZIIP Routine (with the app waveforms)
3-5x a week
All-inclusive or Energize
Founders Favorite
End with either problem skin or electric zone (not on the same night)

“I’ll just sit with the Founders Favorite and watch a show…I don’t care if it takes an hour and a half of doing nanocurrent, I will do it,” Simon told me. “If you really want to see fireworks, just sit there [and do it] while watching a show.” Though doing the treatment once, 3x a week, will do the trick if you don’t have any large pigmentation spots.

You don’t need to do ZIIP more than 3-5x a week. “You want to give your skin a chance to respond to what you’re telling it to do. If you’re doing the Founders Favorite as long as we’re saying, 3 times a week max…this isn’t something I know [from studies], it’s just after so many years of doing this and watching, I absolutely know it’s best to do every other day.”

Best part about ZIIP is it isn’t just for uneven skin. I’ve seen my fine lines and wrinkles melt away, my skin become more lifted, and even more volume in my cheeks. Btw–If you want a 2 week plan, there’s a “glass skin” plan on the app too when you want to change up the routine.

 

LED Light Therapy
First off, light therapy works! However, if you’re prone to an uneven skin tone and/or are over 40, I would consider which color is the best for you. If you have normal, non-reactive skin, red light therapy is amazing.

I’ve recently learned that if you have ‘reactive’ skin (which may include photosensitivity), you may want to avoid the red light color and focus on infrared and blue light. If your skin is easily red, consider your skin photosensitive until the redness is healed. The best tool I know of to be able to pick and choose individual light colors is the Dermalux. I’ve written about it here. For me, my skin has only gotten better and better.

In Office: Clear and Brilliant Laser
“The one laser I recommend is the Clear and Brilliant because it’s not attracted to pigment, it’s attracted to water. And you never get that post melasma response,” Simon says. She does not recommend IPL (intense pulse light) due to the possibility of it triggering the melanin and creating a dark spot.

Step 3: Find Your Skincare Products
I asked Melanie to help me come up with a custom plan for sensitive and uneven skin on ZIIP nights. Here’s what we discussed:

1. Cleanse
2. Tone (Pigm400 toner) or something lactic acid or p50 if you don’t have sensitive skin
3. Waterweight serum (SÉRUM ERYTHROS if you have redness)
4. ZIIP Serum (read about which serum to choose here)
5. Wash
6. Serum (she likes biologique Matriciel Visage)
7. Cream

Lactic Acid is very hydrating and gentle while easily removing dead skin cells to improve skin texture and brighten up the skin. My favorite Lactic Acid is a mask called Berry Gomage by Arcona.

On your non-ziip nights, feel free to go crazy on your serums, but stay away from some of the topical creams that are so popular like hydroquinone. Two ingredients I would look for are Vitamin C and Niacinamide. I love these 2 routines for my non-ZIIP nights:

Here are 2 of my gentle skincare routines that have worked well for evening my skin tone:

Arcona (my skin looked positively glowy with this routine)
1. Kiwi Cream Bar
2. Trial Pads
3. Alternate nights: Gentle Solution Glycolic Acid and their Vitamin C 3 days a week for brightening
4. White Ice Hydrator to seal it in

Fragrance free and currently testing:
1. Gentle Micellar Cleanser
2. Purifying Blue Clay Mask
3. Wash
4. Lactic Acid by The Ordinary
5. Restorative Niacinamide Night Cream

So there you have it. Chasing that glass skin dream isn’t just about slathering on the latest miracle cream. It’s a mix of understanding what your skin’s screaming for, picking up the right tools, and mixing in some lifestyle tweaks. While we can’t turn back the clock, we can easily up the collagen production and get rid of our skin discolorations with a little diligence and care.

A quick note: While age spots are usually harmless, they can sometimes mimic more serious skin issues like melanoma. So, it’s a good idea to have any new or changing spots checked out by a dermatologist—better safe than sorry!